I have a Canoscan 9000F and although there are cheaper and more expensive options – but I bought this one as it works well with Apple and was available in Hong Kong.įinally you need to go on line at this point and watch some of the instructional videos about loading film onto reels as well as basic methods for developing. The negative scanner is the most expensive part of the kit and so make sure you get a scanner that is up to date so that it works well with your computer and that it comes with holders for 35mm, slide and 120 film types. Once you have bought the kit – which shouldn’t be a heavy outlay, you need to also buy a Negative Scanner to put the images onto your computer (as I am assuming that because you will also have no darkroom that you will not have an enlarger and be printing from negatives). You can add to this list by buying a stopwatch if your phone doesn’t have one, a drying cabinet if hanging film in your bathroom isn’t going to work for you, some surgical gloves to wear whilst processing (if you are clumsy and are going to poor chemicals over yourself) and many other odds and sods that you really don’t need to be able to develop film. I would suggest you get the largest size you can – as you are going to not only need room for your film, scissors, a can opener if you have 35mm film but also the tank with the light proof lid and all parts.įor the developing side you will need a couple of graduated beakers (one small and one large), a thermometer, perhaps clips to hang the film up if you don’t want to use house hold pegs and a squeegee to take excess water off the film before drying. Some people have a bathroom in their house that is completely light proof but if you are like the majority of us that don’t have that option – you will need a dark bag. Putting the film onto the reels has to be done in complete darkness. For the stainless steel type the reels are fixed to take one or the other film size, whereas the Patterson system has reels that can be expanded or contracted to take either film type.īoth types of tank are light proof – so once the film is inside of them you will not get any fogging of your negatives during processing. Tanks come with reels that take 35mm or 120 negatives.
So as mentioned above, I am going to only talk about tank processing and so for me this is either the plastic Patterson Tank or a Stainless Steel Tank. – Development Timing and what this really means So this post is going to be broken down into the following areas What I am going to cover are the basics of processing at home, the lessons I have learnt in starting the process for myself and hopefully show anyone that reads this and wants to try B/W developing that it is something they should definitely do – and not just for economic reasons.
PHOTOFLOW RINSE AFTER ILFORD RAPIDFIX HOW TO
In this post I am not going to write a guide on how to develop film – especially as a quick search on the internet is going to give you many much better written explanations of the process and also videos on you tube that will prove invaluable to the first time developer.Īlso if feels as if this topic is becoming the favourite of photo bloggers at the moment – which hopefully means there is growing interest in both film photography and in home developing. The process of home developing requires little specialist kit and also when you get into the swing of it, you don’t need that much time (apart from scanning films). What had always put me off the idea of developing my own film in the past was the idea that I had to have a dark room to do it and I think this remains a common misconception.
PHOTOFLOW RINSE AFTER ILFORD RAPIDFIX FULL
Living as I do in Hong Kong with a full family (wife, daughter, son, two cats and a French Bulldog) where space is a premium and travelling for work an extraordinary amount I neither have the space nor the time to consider colour rotary processing at the moment and definitely am not about to convert a bedroom to a dark room for anything more complex. This post is only going to be about B/W development in a tank and not colour film.
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